Hinton and Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada

The weather was still a bit iffy when we left Banff National Park.  That day’s travels took us along the Icefields Parkway, a 146 mile long scenic road which runs through the heart of both Banff and Jasper national parks.  It passes through several icefields, which are described as large upland glaciers, and dozens of smaller glaciers as well. 

With a reduced speed limit and no commercial traffic, except for tour buses, it was a leisurely drive.  Wildlife spotting was limited but Bill and Carolyn did spot a bear at the roadside; we missed it, being too busy avoiding some tourists who’d made a quick U-turn to view the bear and didn’t bother to get their vehicle off the road.  There are endless signs along the roads admonishing drivers to watch out for wildlife when in fact “stupid people” are the real hazard.

We made a brief stop at the Icefields Interpretive Centre to photograph Athabasca Glacier which is edging its way down from the Columbia Icefield; the icefield covers 241 square miles, making it of sufficient size to keep the area a little on the cool side.  We were all chilled to the bone, not yet having learned that if you can see snow it’s probably cold outside! 

By the time we got to Jasper, it was raining again so we proceeded on to our campground in Hinton.  Generally we avoid KOAs for a variety of reasons, being over-priced being the major one.  The staff was friendly and helpful but that did not compensate for the fact that the “free wi-fi” mentioned in their advertisements was all but useless.  It worked for very brief periods of time in the middle of the night and the staff apparently had no idea that a lack of Internet access could be a real problem for their guests.  Fortunately Hinton is home to a nice library and we were able to use their wi-fi on Sunday afternoon, making the contacts we needed to make. 

We had hoped to hike the Beaver Boardwalk after our session at the library but by then the storm clouds had rolled in and there was a T-storm in the works.  Of course by the time we had committed to going back to the coach, the storm had moved on and blue skies reappeared. 

Hinton is a city with a very definite split personality.  It was once two towns and they’ve since merged…almost.  One section, where most of the stores are located, is known as “the hill”.  The other, known as “the valley” houses most of the community buildings such as the library.  It’s no easy matter to get from one side of town to the other.

From Hinton we drove due north on Route 40 to Grande Prairie, a 200+ mile traverse of magnificent scenery and very few people.  The road runs for a time along the Athabasca River, then the Smokey and crosses a number of smaller rivers and creeks which feed the larger rivers.  Within a very short time of leaving Hinton, we saw a moose.  That whetted our appetites to see more wildlife but, search as we might, nothing else made itself visible.  Toward the end of the route we did see a herd of elk which I mistook for cows because they seemed to be in a fenced pasture.  And we saw several white-tailed deer. 

Grande Prairie is a city of some 50,000 and sports at least one example of every kind of emporia you might imagine.  It is also teeming with traffic and bristling with energy and enthusiasm.  After an early supper, we took a bus tour of the city, conducted by the local Rotary Club.  The tour guide pointed out all the “city improvements” which have been donated by various local VIPs and organizations.  When we saw the downtown area, with all it’s unique shops, we were disappointed not to be staying  just a bit longer than one night.

It’s a comfort to learn that it’s not our over-active imagination that prices are high in Canada.  The tour guide told us of a trip she made to Las Vegas and was so impressed with how cheap everything was that she left most of her clothes behind and bought a whole new wardrobe.  Even with the purchase of new luggage and extra baggage fees, she was still ahead of the game.

The visitors center is housed in a large modern building which they share with the Chamber of Commerce and a museum.  It is situated overlooking the Bear Creek Reservoir and sports the largest sundial in North America.  This 40’ tall structure is made of concrete, steel and stainless steel.  The time capsules buried in the plaza around the sundial are scheduled to be opened in 2050.

Our campground in Grande Prairie (which sounds like Grand Prix when the locals say it) is going to be excellent some day.  Just not yet.  Everything is brand new, including the gravel sites.  Unfortunately with all the rain the area has received, there was nowhere near enough gravel in the sites to support the weight of  big rigs and we sank immediately into the mud.  Luckily the coach settled in a nearly level position.  The levelers would have been useless so they remain raised. 

Cochrane, Banff and Lake Louise, Alberta

Skies were still pretty sullen when we departed Lethbridge and headed north to Cochrane, a bedroom community northwest of Calgary.  The terrain we passed through was more of the same, mostly flat prairie with grazing cattle and tidy farms widely spaced.  The only “wildlife” we saw, except for a few elk in a pen, were a pair of coyotes heading off on some important errand.  They seemed very focused on their task and moved along at a pretty good clip. 

Our campground in Cochrane is very nicely located in the valley within walking distance of the Bow River.  The hills around us are beginning to show signs of “cliff dwellings”, large three-story homes crammed cheek by jowl along the ridges overlooking the town.  The downtown area features a lot of small boutiques and quirky shops.  So far we’ve found that most goods and services in Canada are significantly more expensive than in the U.S.  In many cases, we can expect to pay twice as much for just about everything while we’re here.  So we’ll try not to be here any longer than necessary.

Both Carolyn and I felt that we saw as much of Calgary as we needed as we drove through the city on the way to Cochrane, so it wasn’t any hardship to just bag it and not go back to explore further.  There weren’t many attractions that appealed to us and those that were of interest were more than we’d care to spend to see them.  So Howie and I made a mad dash to Costco in Calgary to stock up on power bars while Bill and Carolyn stayed in Cochrane to enjoy an over-priced lunch.  Each of us discovered some native customs we’d not encountered before.  One of the grocery chains rent their shopping carts for $1 (we assume it’s refundable) and charge for the plastic bags as well.  We opted to do our shopping elsewhere – the prices were not significantly lower to warrant the lack of amenities.  Meanwhile, Bill and Carolyn stopped for an ice cream; not only was it $3.99 a scoop but there was an additional fee for the dish to put it in.  What would happen if you refused the dish?  Would they just place a scoop of rocky road in your outstretched hand?

Obviously Bill and Carolyn are a good influence on us because we rolled out of the Cochrane campground nearly half an hour ahead of schedule.  The short drive to Banff was smooth and our sites at the Tunnel Mountain Trailer Park were available when we arrived.  This is an interesting campground with a large number of full hook-up sites.  While not exactly pull-throughs, they are more like pull-offs – large half-moon shaped sites arching from the main service road and with service pedestals near the front of the site and plenty of room to park the “toad” behind.  The fee was a bit more than we’re usually willing to spend.  If Howie figured correctly, this site is costing $65 U.S. a night between the camping fee and the daily park entry fee.  A storm knocked out both electricity and water pressure, along with the trio of t.v. stations which filter through the mountains and end up in Banff.   So, for more than three hours, it would appear that we paid a premium for a primitive site.  I’m fairly certain a refund will not be forthcoming.

But, between storms, there was a patch of partly sunny weather.  We raced to downtown Banff and trolled through the high-end shops while Howie hit the library for a wi-fi hook-up.  We picked up some brochures at the Visitors Center and elbowed our way through the hordes of tourists.  It was recommended that we drive to an over-look area to view the Bow River Falls, an absolute torrent racing eastward toward Calgary.  This is the same Bow River that was flowing placidly through Cochrane,where it no longer seemed to be in much of a hurry.

 

 

We took a scenic drive northward to the ski area at Norquay where we were treated to up-close-and-personal views of bighorn sheep grazing along the roads.  Still carrying most of their winter coats, they all looked a bit ratty. 

 

Old habits die hard and I was sorely tempted to leap out and start plucking out that dead coat.  Until I saw a pair of rams butting heads.  They weren’t even very serious about it yet the sound echoed across the hillsides.  We also spotted a pair of babies, probably this spring’s crop, cute little critters who were both graceful and clumsy as they navigated the steep banks alongside the road.

 

Friday was another day of iffy weather but we had to jump on the chance to visit Lake Louise no matter how threatening the skies might appear.  We had been advised to take the Bow Valley Parkway, aka the slow, scenic route, from Banff to Lake Louise.  This road, which parallels Route 1, has a 37 mph speed limit, is closed to commercial traffic and from March 1 to June 25 is closed to all traffic from 6:00 p.m. until 9:00 a.m. to minimize accidents involving wildlife.  Of course that also minimizes the chance of seeing any wildlife as well.  The guys think they might have spotted a bear but perhaps it was just a tree stump or some other dark object.  Bill assured us it was moving.  And that was the end of the wildlife viewing for the day.

 

We made a stop at Johnson Canyon.  Three of us made an attempt to hike to the Lower Falls (of Johnson Creek) while Bill wisely sat in a sunny spot and watched the other tourists traipsing about.  Two of us actually reached the Lower Falls but chicken-hearted me made a sharp U-turn as soon as  the catwalk veered out over the churning water of the fast-flowing creek (it’s a BIG creek, folks).  It was later reported by the brave hearts that the falls were right around the next bend of the walkway.  Of course it was!  It was only half a mile to the Lower Falls, or so the sign said, but the sign didn’t mention that was mostly uphill through mud and over fallen trees.

 

When it was time for lunch we stopped at a ski lodge.  If anyone had any notions of taking the gondola ride to the top of the run it was soon dampened when the sun disappeared behind a bank of clouds and the wind chill sent us shivering to the car.  Dark skies pursued from then on.  Lake Louise, even on a cloudy day, is an incredible color, more aquamarine than blue and reflecting the mountains which crowd her shores.  Not a large lake, there’s an easy walking trail around and the hotel had canoes for rent.  By this time it was too cold to do much of anything except retreat to the car.  When you know you’re going to be that close to a glacier, warmer clothes are a good idea!  When will we learn?

 

Our next stop was Moraine Lake, a 14 km drive into the wilderness.  Similar in color to Lake Louise, it is considerably less commercial but parking could be an issue on a nicer day in the busiest part of the tourist season.  Carolyn and I headed straight for the gift shop, hoping fervently that it was heated.  It was and we spent some time thawing out our fingers and toes and fondling the merchandise (all seriously over-priced).

Originally we intended to take the scenic route back to Banff as well but once we got back to Lake Louise Village, it began to rain in earnest and was just on the verge of being cold enough to become solid, so we all voted in favor of taking Route 1 back to base camp.  There are some very interesting bridges along this road and the route is sturdily fenced.  The bridges, which are quite wide and have grass and trees growing on them, are designed to allow the wildlife to pass safely from one side of the road to the other.  This provides a measure of safety for animals and motorists alike.  There are webcams for your viewing pleasure.

Upon return to Banff we went to work preparing for a move on Saturday and then warmed ourselves with large bowls of lentil soup which had been brewing all day in a slow-cooker.  Blessings on the person who invented that wonderful appliance!

Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada

We finally began our trek to Alaska with a baby step from Great Falls to Lethbridge.  The weather was overcast most of the way but not enough to obscure long views in every direction.  The trip is primarily through prairie with enormous pastures and grain fields with only a handful of small towns scattered along the way.  The border crossing was uneventful and we arrived at Bridgeview RV Resort in Lethbridge and were settled in by mid-afternoon.

The bridge which lends its name to the RV resort is known as the High Level Bridge and is the longest and highest bridge if its type in the world.   

It carries train traffic across the Oldman River (not Old Man River) and was first constructed of wood and completed in 1909.  Fires and rot eventually rendered it too dangerous and it was rebuilt from concrete and steel.  The terrain is very dramatic.  As you enter Lethbridge you’re lulled into thinking its just a flat prairie town but as you near the river you are treated to beautifully sculpted coulees which fall away down to the river where there are several parks with hiking and walking trails.  In spite of cool and cloudy weather, we saw plenty of folks taking advantage of the opportunity to stretch their legs.

After a quick stop at the Visitors’ Center, we drove out to Coaldale to visit the Alberta Birds of Prey Centre, a rehab facility for the raptors indigenous to the area. 

We were greeted at the door by this charming little fellow, only a few months old and still adorned with “baby fuzz”.  Although this is not a breeding facility per se, this owlet was a “happy mistake” and will eventually be used for demonstrations.  There aren’t many such facilities where the visitors are allowed anywhere near the exhibits but we were fortunate enough to be allowed to act as a living perch for two species of owls. 

Mr. Bogle has been an “employee” of the centre for many years.  His handler described him as being a bit grumpy that particular day but I really couldn’t say for sure.  When the raptors are feeling grumpy, they tend to clutch a little harder with their talons.  Never having held an owl before, I couldn’t judge whether or not his grip was “too tight”.

 

Although not native to Alberta, the Centre has a half dozen Harris hawks some of whom participate in flying demonstrations.  They are desert-dwellers, fairly common in the Southwest, and we enjoyed a display of their hunting prowess.  However, a pair of redwing blackbirds managed to run off the hawk when she ventured a little too near the blackbirds’ nesting area.  The hawk showed no inclination to retaliate, probably because she’d already had two or three helpings of “lunch”.

After poking our noses into the gift shop/ticket area we opted not to take a tour of Fort Whoop-Up.  The admission fee and scaled back activities dampened  our enthusiasm for a tour.  Fort Whoop-Up was one of the most notorious centers for the distribution of whiskey by a pair of American entrepreneurs to the native peoples.  The whiskey was “manufactured” on site from pure alcohol and water with some chewing tobacco, lye and hot pepper sauce for flavor and color.  We weren’t inclined to wait around until next month to hear a cannon being fired and so went off to scope out downtown Lethbridge instead.

On Sunday, under continuing cloudy skies, we trekked northward to Fort Macleod to tour the The Fort, a museum devoted to the history of the Northwest Mounted Police, now known as the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.  The force was originated to put a stop to the nefarious activities at Fort Whoop-Up (and other such hell holes) and stop the flow of rotgut to the native peoples.  It was interesting to see the evolution of The Mounties uniform starting with a rather silly pillbox hat to the current handsome Stetson.  The founder insisted on good-quality solid colored horses in order to impress “the bad guys”.  The bright red jackets probably didn’t hurt!

Every town or city is entitled to its quirks and Lethbridge is no exception.  They like to consider themselves “the windy city” of Canada and for their 100th birthday the town’s movers and shakers presented the city with this Wind Gauge.  It sits prominently at the Visitors Centre and is an early indicator of what one can expect, weather-wise, while in the area.  No wonder tie-on hats are so popular around here.

Our next stop is Cochrane just north of Calgary.

Helena and Great Falls, Montana

Although it seems a lifetime ago, it was only two weeks ago when we spent a week in Helena visiting with Mike and Darlene before moving north to Great Falls to position ourselves for departure to Alaska.  The weather was miserable the whole time we were in Helena and we didn’t get so much as a glimpse of the sun.  It rained nearly every day which only added to the flooding problems around the state.  And put us even further into a dark blue funk.  New snow appeared regularly on the nearby mountains.

Skies were still leaden when we arrived in Great Falls with more or less constant rain.  Our campground is very near where the Sun River joins the Missouri and some of the lower-lying areas are under water.  Last week the Corps of Engineers opened the spillway at Ft. Peck to release some of the Missouri, which guarantees that areas of North and South Dakota will flood.  We hope that all our full-timing friends are out of harm’s way.

On our first weekend in Great Falls, the sun came out just long enough for us to visit the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center east of the city.  However, I was feeling unwell and Howie ended up pushing me through the facility in a wheelchair.  It’s an interesting museum and it was a disappointment not to be able to enjoy it.  

We also made a quick stop at Giant Springs State Park to see the world’s shortest river.  The springs themselves are remarkably clear, offering stark contrast to the turgid Missouri just beyond.

 

 

 

 

 

We wanted to take advantage of the rare day of good weather and go around to see all the falls that make Great Falls great but I wasn’t feeling up to more travel.

By Sunday I was feeling extremely weak and unsteady so Howie took me to the emergency room at the local hospital.  Long story short, I spent the next week flat on my back tethered to an IV device while the doctors tried to figure out what was wrong with me.  White blood cells were all cattywumpas but there was nothing to indicate an obvious culprit.  Blood work done yesterday shows everything pretty much returned to normal, a virus was blamed and so I’ve been cleared to make the trek to Alaska after all. 

Meanwhile, our traveling companions, Bill and Carolyn, have arrived from Colorado and we’ve been roughing out an itinerary and schedule.  Thank heavens Carolyn is highly organized and motivated so it has fallen to her to put the bits and pieces together.  We’re supposed to meet up with Russ and Rochelle somewhere along the line but we’ll have to play that by ear since they’re starting out a week later than we are. 

So the Great Alaskan Adventure is about to start.  Stay tuned for all the highlights.