Wandering Southward – October, 2011

After leaving the Oregon Coast, we made a quick stop in Eugene to get new tires for the coach.  Seven years is about the life expectancy for RV tires and the rough Alaska roads probably didn’t do much to prolong their life. 

We stopped for a few days in Sutherlin and found ourselves once again in an area with a surprising number of wineries.  It was suggested that we do a tour of Oakland where many of the buildings are of historical significance.   Antique shops abound, although most were closed on the day we visited.  Traffic on the wide main streets was minimal and only a few folks were wandering about, leaving one with the impression that the town was a stage set after the final curtain.

Originally settled in the 1840’s, the town became an agricultural center and for a time turkey ranching was the primary industry.  It was here that the big-breasted turkey we enjoy today was developed.  Wood products, cattle, sheep and various farm crops kept the economy going.  But time passed, commerce moved elsewhere, and Oakland devolved into the quiet town it is today.  Not exactly a ghost town but well on its way.

Our next stop was Grants Pass, a city we’ve visited several times in the past.  Their Saturday farm market is one of the best.  So often “farm markets” are really craft shows but Grants Pass boasts a goodly number of booths offering organically grown fruits and veggies with a number of heirloom varieties to tempt the taste buds.  There’s a separate area for the craft vendors with a wide array of goods to choose from for those inclined in that direction.

Because we’ve seen most of the local attractions in Grants Pass, we decided to head to Jacksonville, which claims to be “one of the most historically significant communities in the western United States”.  Gold was discovered nearby in 1851 and the camp quickly developed into a major city with shops, banks, saloons.  It was the center of civilization in southern Oregon and the seat of county government but when the railroad bypassed it and chose Medford instead, Jacksonville entered a state of suspended animation until the residents decided to preserve its buildings and ambience.  Today it’s a National Historic Landmark, heavy on the eateries, boutiques and B&Bs in charming old homes.  We just strolled around town, poking into shops and soaking up the laid-back atmosphere.

Moving south into California, we spent two weeks in what is known as The Delta Loop at a membership campground.  This was time to get some heavy-duty chores done, rearrange cupboards, etc.  We also were able to have a mini-reunion with Howie’s college chum, Charles, and his wife Ellen, who live over near San Francisco.  After sitting around yakking for the afternoon, we drove to Rio Vista for dinner at Foster’s Bighorn.  Unbeknownst to us, Foster’s is famous; not for its food so much as for its collection of wildlife trophies.  Our table was directly under an elephant’s head, reputed to be the largest mammal trophy in any collection.  The tusks, mounted separately, are said to weigh 110 pounds each.  I was left wondering just how well that particular trophy was attached to the wall…and just how sturdy the wall was in the first place!

This area of California is criss-crossed with winding rivers such as the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, held in place by levees.  The flat areas between rivers are planted in all sorts of crops, including grapes to help supply the many vineyards in the region.  There are also enormous fields of corn and tomatoes and we’ve been told that asparagus is one of the most significant crops in the spring.  The nearest town of any size is Lodi and it sports a very charming downtown area, studded with interesting shops and places to eat.  The downtown’s “signature” is this mission-style arch.  Except for the fact that it’s in the state of California, Lodi meets all the requirements as a place to live if and when traveling ceases to amuse us – big enough to have a Costco and small enough to find your way around without much help.

A wintering spot for lesser and sandhill cranes, Lodi brags a bit about its winged winter visitors with this fountain situated in front of the railroad station. 

 

 

 

 

We spent our final Sunday in Lodi visiting the Hill House Mansion, a Queen Anne confection open to the public only from 1:00 to 4:00 on Sundays and staffed by members of the Historical Society.  Our tour guide, a long-time resident of the city, filled us in on all the details about the house, the Hill family and Lodi’s history.  We’ve toured a great many similar historic homes but this one has a unique aspect which most others do not; generally furniture and artifacts are “of the period” but almost all of the contents of the Hill House belonged to the family and were used in the home.  At one time the house sat “downtown” across the street from the Post Office but eventually commercial expansion made its site less attractive and the house was moved, in toto, to its present location.  Our tour guide as a young boy had watched this magnificent Victorian home being hauled down the street by a one-ton truck and plopped down on Church Street where it now faces west, not east as it once had.

The guide explained that the house was not the first in Lodi, nor was it the grandest but it is a complete intact example of how the upper middle class lived at the turn of the century.  What a great treasure!  In touring old homes such as this, someone in the tour group is certain to bring up the subject of ghosts and this trip was no exception.  Our guide was not only ready to address the subject but even a bit eager, although he personally disavowed any strong belief in the paranormal.  He told some of the stories covered in this newspaper article and admitted to feeling a bit uneasy every time he had to be at the house late at night.

Now we continue our trek southward where we will be spending some time visiting the central coast of California along with a few of its famous missions.  Stayed tuned for a full report…eventually.